A warm welcome and exquisite cuisine awaits at The Royal York
The Fairmont Royal York wears its heritage well, but it's the people who make a stay here feel like you're right at home
“Hi! How are you? It’s been too long.”
Sitting in the Fairmont Royal York’s EPIC restaurant at breakfast, it felt as though we were intruding on a family
The lady of a certain age – a fellow diner – was being addressed by a waiter, the second one to come over and greet her. They remembered her and wanted her to know that her absence had been felt. This was an authentic display of affection – reciprocated by the guest – that was just one example of a warm welcome that we witnessed during our brief visit. More on that later.
As soon as you walk into the hotel via the main entrance opposite Union Station, leaving the bruising hustle and bustle of the city behind, you can feel the soothing calmness of this historic establishment. The bright lights and big city give way to a large, open foyer that welcomes you with subdued lighting and a luxurious interior. A large space like this, especially one that is so refined, can often make one feel overwhelmed and out of place, but the Royal York has managed to make people’s first encounter with the hotel feel warm and welcoming. The building might have seemed opulent and exclusive in an earlier age, but nowadays its design recalls a time when architecture was on a more human scale.
While we walked away from the reception desk after checking in, I watched as a large family – every member wearing a huge smile – approached the desk next to us. The mother leaned across to the male receptionist, embracing him while saying how good it was to see him again. (This touchy-feely greeting, as opposed to a more sedate handshake, indicated that these people were out-of-towners.) The receptionist, in turn, looked at the young teenaged boy alongside her and remarked that he couldn’t believe how much he had grown. Clearly, this family were not first-time visitors.
Over the years, the hotel has been a temporary home-away-from-home for an eclectic mix of people, including political heavyweights and royalty. Our visit coincided with the 2010 convention of the Ontario Association of Agriculture Societies, accounting for the many sash-wearing Fair Ambassadors who were wandering around reception. The day before we arrived,
The Royal York’s elegant, calming and comfortable décor continued into our deluxe suite. My wife, Cheryl, observed that there wasn’t a dresser in our bedroom to do her makeup, nor anywhere in the bathroom to place her
That small complaint aside, the comfy king-size bed beckoned, so we collapsed onto it to watch the sporting endeavours and exertions of Olympians on TV while we killed time before dinner. We were here to relax, after all.
The hotel has five restaurants – including the entertaining Benihana Japanese Steakhouse, where your meal’s preparation borders on a performance – as well as four lounges and
I’d been looking forward to eating at the EPIC restaurant for some time, after reading about its support for sustainable farming. Chef Ryan Gustafson says: “I concentrate on sourcing
Gustafson is committed to EPIC’s partnership with the Ocean Wise conservation program, which is reflected in the fish and shellfish on the menu. Also, in late February he was one of the contributing chefs for FoodShare’s “Recipe for Change”, a gastronomic fundraiser in support of Field to Table programs that teach food literacy to children. Based on the evidence of our meal, Gustafson is a more than capable tutor.
The EPIC has a fluid, contemporary design. Curved banquettes are decorated in calming hues of blue and green, enhancing the relaxed atmosphere. The whole area is open plan, so you can watch your meal being prepared in the kitchen at the back of the restaurant. If you’ve seen professional kitchens on TV, you might expect this to be a hive of activity and noise. However, in keeping with the overall
By the time Cheryl had sampled the second forkful of Ingersoll buffalo mozzarella from her Speck and Leamington Tomato salad, she had already decided that she’d had enough of
My Winter Salad was abundant with seasonal greens, crisp apples and beets, and crunchy home-made granola, all topped with a spoonful of fresh chevre. This was embellished with a subtle chamomile-citrus dressing. I can see myself becoming a locavore.
On to the mains.
My Seared Big Eye Tuna was dressed
The local theme continues through to the desserts menu, too. Cheryl chose a decadent baked Bailey’s cheesecake, accompanied by freshly-made coffee ice cream and local berries. I devoured the refreshing house-made sorbets: one small scoop each of mango, blueberries and Icewine.
Such is the reputation of the EPIC that it attracts not just diners who are guests at the Royal York, but “outsiders” as well. As our waiter, Alvaro, pointed out, “Everyone eats here.”
Checking the time at the end of our meal, I was surprised to find that nearly two hours had passed while we consumed our three courses. The service was perfect: from the chirpy Margarida who welcomed us at the front desk, to the attentive yet discreet Alvaro, who provided excellent advice on menu choices when required. And the bar knows how to make a mean cosmopolitan.
A restful night’s sleep on that king-size bed punctuated our two culinary excursions.
There are many places in
We made the right choice. The daunting array of alternatives in the buffet was an encouragement to indulge, but the options were so healthy that it would be difficult to do any serious nutritional damage.
That’s when we witnessed the reunion between the waiters and the prodigal guest.
In its illustrious lifetime and various guises, the Royal York has welcomed over 40 million visitors. I wouldn’t be surprised if every one of them was welcomed back with open arms.
Photos of the Fairmont Royal York.
Find out more at www.fairmont.com/royalyork.